Our artisanal dairy scene is flourishing. Long gone are the days when luridly orange and bizarrely tasteless “cheddar” was the South African benchmark for cheese. While even supermarket cheeses have improved in recent years, the artisanal scene is streets ahead. Multiple small-scale producers around the country have turned their passion for cheese into highly successful businesses. Many of these intrepid producers started from the ground up, taking beginner cheese courses and purchasing a couple of cows.
From these humble beginnings, we now proudly produce internationally acclaimed cheeses delicious enough to rival those of Europe.
Some of these small-scale producers and micro dairies can be pretty tricky to find. I have assembled a list of my favourites to help you in your quest for excellent cheese.
Langbaken Karoo Cheese
Peter and Francy Schoeman moved to Williston in the Northern Karoo in 2010 to follow their dream of becoming artisanal cheesemakers. Starting with a herd of ten Jersey cows (which has now grown to 18), the mainly self-taught couple are now producing some of the most impressive cheese in the country.
Langbaken has a range of seven traditionally aged, farmhouse-style cheeses, many of which have won national and international awards.
Their cheese is available directly from the farm, or supplied nationwide by Wild Peacock Purveyors. Favourites include the gruyere-like Karoo Crumble, Camembert-style Karoo Ash, and the Stout Willis, a semi-hard cheese which has been washed in with Peter’s home-brewed stout.
Fynboshoek Cheese
The most elusive of the producers featured here is Fynboshoek Cheese. And, while thoroughly off the beaten path, it’s definitely worth the journey. Situated on a small farm in Tsitsikamma, Alje van Deemter has a small herd of goats and sheep that he uses to make a variety of fantastic cheeses on-site.
For the full experience, book a seat at one of his understated but highly recommended family-style lunches, which feature homemade bread, homegrown produce and, of course, a whole lot of cheese.
Expect creative offerings like fresh sheep’s cheese coated in dried boletus mushrooms.
Also, it may be a struggle to secure a seat! Booking is essential, via Whatsapp only, and best organised well in advance.
Dalewood Fromage
Although Dalewood in Klapmuts can no longer be called a small-scale producer, they nevertheless deserve a mention here.
While their excellent cheeses can now be found raising the standards of supermarket cheese isles nationwide, they maintain their small producer ethos and quality.
Dalewood is committed to regenerative farming practices and improving soil ecology. The theory is that healthy soil means happy cows and excellent quality milk, and this shows in the flavour. Some of the most notable varieties include the Lanquedoc, the Huguenot, and the Brie Superlatif. The farm cheesery shop stocks a larger range than found elsewhere, as does Wild Peacock.
Gay’s Guernsey Dairy
Gay van Hasselt started this small dairy in Prince Albert in the Karoo in 1990 with three Guernsey cows. From the simple beginnings of supplying milk to local schools, the family business has grown into a thriving cheesery. Raw milk from happy, free-ranging cows is turned into an excellent range of hard cheeses.
The most aged varieties, the Queen Vic and Parma Prince are South Africa’s very respectable alternatives to Parmigiano Reggiano.
The farm feels central to the foodie vibe of Prince Albert, complete with a very cute little farm shop, regular community-rooted farm events, and a grumpy farm cat.
Belnori
Rina and Norman Belcher started their cheese journey in Bapsfontein, Gauteng by buying four goats and attending a beginner’s cheesemaking course. While their first sales were at local markets, they now have an impressive count of 68 South African Champion cheeses, and 24 international medals from the World Cheese Awards.
Their fresh and aged goat cheeses are rich and flavourful, but never pungent or :goaty”.
They are gentle and smooth enough to convert even goat’s cheese sceptics. Their cheese is available for delivery both in Gauteng and the Western Cape.
Pepe Charlot Artisan Goat’s Cheese
Gerald Tanesse, who hails from Lyon, has brought his traditional French cheesemaking expertise to Kommetjie in the Western Cape.
His aged, soft rind “buche” log cheeses are some of the best South Africa has to offer.
The classic or pine-ash-washed cheese is generally available for delivery in the greater Cape Town area on Thursdays, when production allows.
Babylonstoren
Babylonstoren is home to one of the few water buffalo herds in South Africa. The milk and cream are used to make unusually pale and creamy butter, mozzarella, halloumi, and even gelato. Water buffalo milk is higher in protein, calcium and iron than cow’s milk, and lower in cholesterol and lactose. This makes it a great option for sensitive bellies and those with allergies. The fat content is also much higher, resulting in mouth-wateringly rich dairy products. Babylonstoren dairy products are available for delivery online.
Cream of the Crop
Maria van Zyls’ Cream of the Crop is a micro-dairy in Piket-Bo-Berg. Having spent three years training at Italy’s Slow Food University, Maria returned to South Africa with a pledge to produce dairy products in the best way possible. Customers can join the Committed Value Chain and receive a season or more of weekly dairy deliveries, including milk, cream, cultured butter, yoghurt and various cheeses, with the knowledge that the dairy comes from healthy, well-treated cows. She also offers highly recommended cheese and butter-making workshops at the farm.
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Around Cheese
Finally, although not a dairy producer, Around Cheese is a great resource for the artisanal cheese lover. Located at the Oranjezicht City Farm Market, these excellent purveyors stock most of the brands mentioned above, as well as many others. They are definitely worth a visit in preparation for impromptu summer picnics this festive season.
In this article, we recommend some products that we believe you might like. We’re not affiliated with any of the brands or products mentioned, and we don’t make any money if you click the links and buy something. Our recommendations are based on our own research and are solely intended to help you find the products we mention.
Thanks Caitlin, it’s great to highlight the momentum in delicious cheeses that has totally changed this cottage industry in the last 5-7 years. We buy our cheese at OFM where there is a really well curated stall. Where else can you recommend to buy from a large selection featuring the cheeses you highlight?
Hi Tim, thanks for your comment. The cheese stall at OZCF is fantastic – I recommend asking them about any of these cheeses as they definitely stock many of them and may be able to source others for you. Pepe Charlot cheese is available via WhatsApp only – the contact details can be found on their Facebook page. Wild Peacock in Stellenbosch do deliveries, and they stock many of the cheeses mentioned in the article. Shops that I like to visit to source cheese from are: Sans in Greenpoint and Olive Branch Deli on Kloof Street. Many of these cheeses can also be found at local Food Clubs – have a look at Food Club Hub to find out if there is one in your area. – Caitlin